The overnight Raj express from Varanasi winds its way through a purple sunrise, past fields of dhal and houses made from sun-dried mud. I wake suddenly to the jingle jangle of ruby red glass bracelets. Instinctively I reach under the…

The overnight Raj express from Varanasi winds its way through a purple sunrise, past fields of dhal and houses made from sun-dried mud. I wake suddenly to the jingle jangle of ruby red glass bracelets. Instinctively I reach under the…