“Germany you checking oil for pakora,” Shashi hands me an apron. I try to explain that I’ve lived almost half my life in Australia. Shashi doesn’t have time for such trivial detail. “You look like other Germany girl. Easier…

“Germany you checking oil for pakora,” Shashi hands me an apron. I try to explain that I’ve lived almost half my life in Australia. Shashi doesn’t have time for such trivial detail. “You look like other Germany girl. Easier…
The overnight Raj express from Varanasi winds its way through a purple sunrise, past fields of dhal and houses made from sun-dried mud. I wake suddenly to the jingle jangle of ruby red glass bracelets. Instinctively I reach under the…